Journey of a restless mind

Designer Ritu Beri on her books, love for Paris and promoting khadi

Big dreams, a relentless drive and an urge to think beyond what’s predictable set Ritu Beri ahead of the fashion pack. The designer, who has completed 25 years in the world of style, has brought out two sumptuous monographs, The Designs of a Restless Mind and The Fire of a Restless Mind, in which she shares the inside story of her success. Writing is not new to this recipient of the Chevalier de L’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres honour by the French Government. She had discussed the invisible threads in the fabric of her creativity with books such as Style File and Firefly: A Fairytale before. Her 101 Ways to Look Your Best was a fantastic primer on style and dressing up. In an e-mail interaction in the run-up to her session at The Hindu Lit For Life on January 16, she talks about her books, love for Paris, building an ‘Indian global brand’, promoting khadi and why the word ‘impossible’ doesn’t exist in her lexicon. Excerpts:

Few Indian designers devote time to documenting their work. What prompted you to bring out two simultaneous publications?

Nothing inspires me more than life. Life is my source of passion, and it has gifted me rewarding experiences. The intensity of my desire to create was spurred by a need to reach out and touch the sky! A photograph is different from real life, but it captures and reflects drama and magic. The pictures in my book The Designs of a Restless Mind tell my story, and with my thoughts in words, I try to breathe life into it. It is sparked by my views of reality and the privilege of a colourful voyage through life. The Fire of a Restless Mind relates periods of unbelievable success, heart-breaking failure, ruthless business drama and encounters with the global high society. It is an exciting portrayal of an Indian designer who aspires to conquer the humongous fashion world of Paris.

I wanted to make India proud by representing it on the international fashion-catwalk. There are first-hand accounts of my various experiences, interspersed with unexpected encounters in my effort to create an Indian global brand.

You pushed the boundaries for yourself and for fashion. Your book talks about embracing the odds and moving ahead. What made you step out of predetermined paths?

My passion and my dreams drove me to become an entrepreneur. As a creative person in business, I follow my own ways of nurturing my ambition. I am a dreamer, and I enjoy impossible situations. I put all my effort into turning challenges to reality. My work is greatly influenced by my personal state of mind. I love to explore new possibilities and work in an inspired mode while mostly designing to satisfy myself.

Picking up the threads of couture from Francois Lesage, showcasing your collection in Paris and being the first Asian designer to head Jean-Louis Scherrer… You were ahead of your time. To whom, or what, would you attribute these career-defining moments?

My obsession with Paris and the desire to go beyond the usual is what launched me on this crazy journey. Paris represents an illustrious past and is the grandest place in the world of luxury. Back then, not many Indian designers had done shows in Paris, so for an Indian designer to be heading a French fashion house was an impossible dream. My Paris journey began with Francois Lesage. But even before I knew him, if a genie popped out and offered me one wish, it would be to hear stories of fashion from the past, in Lesage’s words. I learnt a lot from him. He was my mentor and a complete lesson on the global fashion industry.

Most fashion biographies are windows to a flaky world of glamour. Was it a conscious decision to cut out the frills and relate a serious story?

For 25 years, I have chased my dreams and worked on many ambitious projects. Every new day comes with fresh ideas, aspirations and dreams. At a very early age, I started handling my business along with exploring the impossibilities the world had to offer. When I started out, fashion was not considered a serious business; it was just a creative indulgence. Slowly, everybody began realising its potential; today, there are so many facets to fashion. Think embroidery designer, textile specialist, footwear designer, makeup artist or stylist. Today, everybody wants to be associated with the glamour of fashion.

As a brand ambassador for khadi, you have re-articulated the fabric and got people talking about the design possibilities with it. But in the fashion world, such efforts are usually not sustained.

My first collection launched in 1990 was in khadi. It’s a weaver’s delight and a comfortable fabric. For me, it’s a summer staple. I am taking many initiatives to include fashion shows for adults and children dedicated to khadi. Prime Minister Narendra Modi has made a fervent appeal to foster a khadi culture. As a tribute to this spirit, I conceptualised and designed ‘Vichar Vastra’, a line of easy-to-wear, versatile shirts. Priced at Rs. 1,299, it is a statement piece to promote khadi not just as a fabric, but as a symbol of an Indian state of mind. Many celebrities have endorsed Vichar Vastra, which is now available at khadi outlets. I am honoured to be appointed advisor by the Khadi and Village Industries Commission. I am trying to give khadi a makeover to promote it globally. It’s going to be a sustained effort.

Between 1990 and today, what are the big changes you’ve witnessed in the fashion scene here?

The fashion industry has undergone a tremendous metamorphosis, since I joined in 1990. Now, people are conscious about what they wear and want to look their best at all times, which is fantastic. Designers are constantly showcasing their lines at various fashion capitals of the world. Indian fashion is spotted on international ramps and has become a huge source of inspiration globally.

A number of luxury brands that opened standalone stores in India, shut shop or moved to multi-brand outlets. What is the future of the luxury market in India?

My vision for the future of the Indian luxury industry is infinite. I urge talented craftsmen and designers to develop corporate houses and establish strong brand identities by focussing on niche aspects of our culture. This dream I see, with open eyes, every day! Several Japanese designers have created a space for themselves in a competitive international market by reflecting their culture through their designs.

What is that one style rule that can instantly transform a look from passé to wow?

For me, it’s not just one thing, it is the entire personality, body language and how much one feels comfortable with oneself. Natural beauty has an unmatchable allure. Flaunting logos reflects a lack of style, and a woman wearing them looks like a billboard!

As a celebrity keen on bringing about change, what are the concerns you are most involved with?

I am very much involved with my charity foundation, The Blessed Hearts Foundation. It works for the improvement and upliftment of less fortunate children. We work to raise funds for autistic children and try to create greater awareness about the issue.

How have you handled moments of conflict between being a mom and an upwardly-mobile career woman?

Fashion is work 24x7. I try my best to find a balance between achieving all at work and spending time with my baby and family. Sometimes, I take Gia to office with me. The key is to give your best to whatever you are doing. It is about quality rather than quantity.

What is the best and worst part of being Ritu Beri?

Worst: I am very stubborn, I can’t see imperfection, it blurs my mind!

Best: I love taking risks and do not believe in the word ‘Impossible.’